Clary Sage Oil

#### Sage (Clary) Oil. Known under the French name of "essence sauge sclarée", **Clary Sage Oil **is steam distilled from the flowering tops and foliage of Salvia Sclarea, a tall perennial plant, often cultivated in gardens or occasionally growing semiwild sporadically in the neighborhood of previous cultures of the plant. **Salvia**** ****Sclarea**** **originates in countries bordering the Mediterranean sea, but is now cultivated in central Europe, the U. S. S. R., England, Morocco and the U.S. A. In the southernmost parts of the U.S.S.R., Crimea and Kaukasia, the plant is cultivated and the oil distilled on a very large scale. Production of the essential oil in this area exceeds 100 metric tons per year. Part of this quantity is used domestically in Russia, but considerable quantities are exported to France, the U.S.A. and the Far East. During the late *1950's,** *the Russian oil has dominated the world market and made distillation of clary sage oil in France, Italy and England economically unattractive. The creative perfumer can enjoy a price decrease from about 375/— sh. per kilo in 1955 to about 220/— in 1960. The French and English oils, and, more recently, the Moroccan oils enjoy a reputation of fineness and delicate notes, superior to those of the Russian oil. Morocco, France, Italy, Germany, Hungary, Rumania, Yugoslavia and, lately, the far-western states of Oregon and Washington in the U.S.A. are producing modest quantities of clary sage oil. American production is still on an experimental scale in the farwestern peppermint area. **Clary Sage Oil **is a colorless to pale yellow or pale olive-colored liquid, sweet-herbaceous, tenacious in odor, soft and somewhat reminiscent of ambra in its bitter-sweet undertone. Apart from the initial linalylacetate—linalool notes, there is a very characteristic note in the odor of clary sage oil. The note remains in the dryout odor on a perfume blotter. Some perfumers describe it as tobacco-like, others as balsamic or tea-like. It also has something in common with the odor of **Cistus Oil **and **Moroccan Chamomile **(see these monographs). Since **Linalool **and **Linalyl Acetate **are the main constituents of this fairly expensive essential oil, adulteration frequently takes place by the simple addition of these synthetic materials or by addition of **Mentha Citrata **oil, etc. Such additions obviously affect the above-mentioned characteristic note, but may not affect the physico-chemical properties of the oil. It is therefore of paramount importance to rely upon a strict olfactory test on this oil prior to any significant purchase. The characteristic notes coming from constituents other than linalool and linalyl acetate should be studied carefully. **Clary Sage Oil **is used in perfumery as an individual body or as a modifier for bergamot oil, lavender, etc. and for ambra notes with labdanum extracts, cistus oil, olibanum resinoid, cinnamic alcohol, nitromusks or synthetic ambergris materials, etc.; in chypre bases, fougères, Oriental and "tabac"-type fragrances and in modern fantasy creations with aldehydic notes or even in woody bases. In the classical type of cologne perfumes it lends unique tenacity and acts as a very fragrant fixative, particularly in combination with labdanum products and musks. It blends beautifully with coriander, cardamom, citrus oils, lavandin and lavender, geranium oil, sandalwood oil, eugenol and derivatives, cedarwood derivatives, methylionones, phenylethyl alcohol, etc. In flavors, the coriander-like notes of clary sage oil are exploited in liqueurs, wine essences, grape flavors, etc. Furthermore, it is useful as a modifier in spice compounds. See also **Sage**** ****(Clary)**** ****Absolute**** **and **Concrète**, previous monograph.